The perfect of Paris Trend Week SS22

Bonjour, mes amours! Quelle merveille, Paris Trend Week est de retour! The grande dame of vogue showcases is again, bolder and higher than ever for SS22. As vogue’s travelling circus rolls into its largest, busiest stretch, we’ll be bringing you the lowdowns on the chicest collections, stay (effectively, nearly) from the dazzling lights of la ville lumière. Alongside blurbs for our standalone critiques on the large hitters (all of the tea in your Chanels, Diors and Vuittons), we’ll even be feeding you the 411 on reveals and shows by the schedule’s most enjoyable impartial names. Should you can barely comprise your self on the very considered that, simply think about how we really feel! We shan’t get too forward of ourselves although, this can be a marathon and never a dash. Now, in your marks, get set… GO!

Kenneth Ize

Opening the primary fully-fledged bodily Paris Trend Week in shut to 2 years is not any imply feat and occupying that spot is kind of the honour – it’s an indication of the religion and respect positioned in you by the powers on the trade’s top. This season it fell to Kenneth Ize. After final season had grappled with the duty of discovering mild amid the darkness that has plagued the previous 18 months — it was wealthy with graphic tailoring and extra earthen hues than we’d beforehand seen from the designer — SS22 marked a return to the extra overtly optimistic timbre for which he first made his identify. Fittingly titled ‘A New Daybreak’, he introduced 30 appears imbued with a way of cheery lightness that buoyed the exacting construction of their silhouettes: spaghetti-strapped column clothes in gold-striped white aso oke fabric – woven within the manufacturing unit he’s arrange in Ilorin State, Nigeria – have been trimmed with cascades of fringe; joyful lurex knits got here in disco-pop colors and cropped tiger stripe tunics and jumpsuits fluttered within the wake of the wearer’s stroll. Whereas it was definitely the type of assortment that will deliver a smile to even essentially the most stony-hearted of veteran editors, these weren’t simply ‘joyful garments’. Reasonably, there was a palpable sense of calm, poise and confidence in Kenneth’s return to jollier aesthetic territories, feelings that have been mirrored within the deliberately slowed tempo of the fashions to a stay efficiency by London-based saxophonist cktrl. MS

Picture courtesy of Kenneth ize

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Picture courtesy of Kenneth ize

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Picture courtesy of Kenneth ize

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Picture courtesy of Kenneth ize

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Picture courtesy of Kenneth ize

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Picture courtesy of Kenneth ize

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Picture courtesy of Kenneth ize

Marine Serre

Whereas for a lot of, this season is all in regards to the return of the IRL present, there are these designers who, over the course of the pandemic, discovered their area of interest with movie. Amongst them is Paris’ reigning queen of eco-couture Marine Serre, who has put out a few of the most meditative, arresting vogue movies that we’ve seen. Ostal24, the 13-minute flick she screened final evening to a stay crowd at a lavish hôtel particulier within the Marais, was no exception. Providing an immersive perception right into a day within the lifetime of what felt like a Marine Serre commune, it proved that you simply don’t have to see fashions strolling down a runway to essentially recognize vogue. Clad in upcycled terry fabric tees, lab coats normal from embroidered Dutch tablecloths and tea towels, and the label’s signature regenerated stretch mesh items, members of the Marine Serre clan which have featured in earlier seasons’ movies carried out ritualistic actions that ranged from the comparatively mundane – communal cooking and yoga – by way of to the extra eccentric actions of feasting on sinister-looking black goop and interesting in ecstatic dances. Quirky as that will all sound, it labored to spotlight the intricacies of the clothes themselves. The movie’s rustic setting, for instance, introduced out the fragile fantastic thing about a lace costume, whereas additionally bringing the starkness of a cinched leather-based coat into aid. And the dulcet blues and purples of patchwork denim blurred towards swaying nettles and reeds. It was a testomony not solely to Marine’s capacities as a designer, however as a world-builder, too. MS

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Picture courtesy of Marine Serre

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Picture courtesy of Marine Serre

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Picture courtesy of Marine Serre

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Picture courtesy of Marine Serre

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Picture courtesy of Marine Serre

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Picture courtesy of Marine Serre